We just waxed lyrical on some of the best Australian road trips, and one of them (spoiler alert!) was the classic Great Ocean Road, from Apollo Bay to the Twelve Apostles. But don’t be boring and drive it like everyone else! Grab your walking boots and do the Great Ocean Walk instead. Yep, you can cover the same route, and get even closer to the ocean, on foot. Here’s how.
Apollo Bay to Elliot Ridge
6 miles
Highlights: Marengo fur seals, Great Otway National Park, and Shelly Beach
Limber up! Your walk officially starts at the Visitor Centre in Apollo Bay, before winding out of town to the beach-side suburb of Marengo, home to a colony of fur seals who hang out on rocks in the bay. Follow the trail though the Marengo Caravan Park along sandy foreshores and boardwalks and on into the countryside, before dropping back down past a blowhole.
Not long after you’ll hit the forests of the Great Otway National Park where you’ll mooch around the tall trees for a bit before following a trail down to Shelly Beach. From here you can continue on down to the Elliot River mouth and its beautiful eucalyptus trees, before a steep climb up to Elliot Ridge.
A quick note: There’s a bunch of times on the Great Ocean Walk where you can walk along the beaches or rock platforms at low tide, or follow the inland trail instead. You’ll need to keep an eye out for yellow triangle flag markers that’ll show you where to enter and exit the beach sections.
Elliot Ridge to Blanket Bay
7 miles
Highlights: Australia’s biggest trees and a safe swimming location
After Elliot Ridge you’ll head away from the coast and into Mountain Ash, a towering forest that’s the star of the show in this part of the Great Otway National Park. They’re up to 65m high, making them some of the biggest trees in Australia.
You’ll rejoin the coast at Blanket Bay, an isolated stretch of coast that was one of the original ports for unloading supplies for the Cape Otway Lighthouse. It also happens to be one of the few safe swimming locations along the walk.
Blanket Bay to Camp Otway
6 miles
Highlights: Great Otway National Park, swimming at Parker Inlet, and stunning Southern Ocean views around Point Franklin
Despite being so early in the walk you’re already about to be treated to some of its best bits. You’ll creep into the lush coastal forest of Great Otway National Park before popping back out at Parker Inlet, a small but stunning cove with eucalyptus covered hills, a freshwater creek, and a calm, golden sandy beach, perfect for a quick dip.
There’s a campsite here if you want to stay the night, or you can carry on and cross the inlet before rounding Point Franklin, where you’ll be treated to some mega Southern Ocean views on your way to Cape Otway. Make sure you have time to visit the 1848 lighthouse here, once known to seafarers as the ‘Beacon of Hope’.
Cape Otway to Aire River
6 miles
Highlights: Rainbow Falls, Station Beach, Aire River Lookout
After Cape Otway, you’re on your way to Aire River and it’s a walk that’ll take you though sand dunes, coastal scrub-land and mega cliffs. If the conditions are okay and tide is low, don’t miss Rainbow Falls, where freshwaters runs down coastal cliffs. When the light shines on it just right, it’s pretty magical.
After Rainbow Falls, you can either head inland straight to the Aire River Lookout or stick to the coast and head along Station Beach. Magnificent and wild, it ain’t for the faint of heart. Think pounding waves and lots of driftwood, so if you take this route remember to keep a healthy distance from the water’s edge.
The Aire River Lookout offers great views down to the estuary where the Aire River meets the Southern Ocean and Glenaire Beach, then it’s a nice and steady downhill walk from here to the Aire River bridge which’ll cross the river to a campsite.
Aire River to Johanna Beach
8 miles
Highlights: Castle Cove, Peregrine falcons, and Johanna Beach
After Aire River, you’ll head back inland again, walking though spinex forests, before returning to the coastal path for more sweeping views of the rugged coastline here. Not long after you’ll reach Castle Cove, a gorgeous beach surrounded by towering cliffs where dinosaur fossils have been discovered.
After Castle Cove, you’ll wind your way through heath-lands and forests – a mix of manna gums, spring wildflowers and grass trees – occasionally popping out for more incredible views of the coast. Keep an eye out of Peregrine falcons too!
Finally, you’ll emerge onto Johanna Beach, one of the best in Australia with mega views and crashing surf.
Johanna Beach to Ryan’s Den
8 miles
Highlights: Eastern Grey kangaroos, Milanesia, and Beachcomber’s Cottage
Dig deep for this stretch, it’s the hardest one. On the way to Ryan’s Den from Johanna Beach you’ll switch between farmland and isolated beaches, going up and down, inland to coast and back again.
After leaving Johanna Beach, you’ll head through hills and farmland inland (keep an eye out for the Eastern Grey kangaroo here!) before heading back out to the coast to the incredible Milanesia Beach. It’s isolated, it’s rugged, and it’s hidden – making it extra special when you stumble upon it.
Check out the ‘beachcomber’s cottage’ at Milanesia Beach before carrying on along the high sea cliffs to Ryan’s Den with it’s stunning views that reach all the way back to Cape Otway. See how far you’ve come!
Ryan’s Den to Devils Kitchen
8 miles
Highlights: Moonlight Head, The Gables Lookout, and Wreck Beach
Another challenging stretch, from Ryan’s Den you’ll head through coastal forests over Cape Volney to the magical-sounding Moonlight Head, full of super steep cliffs, a sea cave and amethyst stones, which give the place its name, can be found on the pebbly beach.
After that, you’ll dip down into a valley on your way to The Gables Lookout, perched on one of the highest sea cliffs in mainland Australia. If you’re here from June to September, you might be extra lucky and spot some of the departing Southern Right Whales.
Carrying on with the track, you’ll come out near Wreck Beach – if it’s low tide you’ll be able to see the anchors of two of the many shipwrecks that lie submerged along this coast (that’ll explain the name, then). Also if the tide is low, you can walk to Devils Kitchen from Wreck Beach directly. If not, take the high tide route from the Wreck Beach Carpark.
Devils Kitchen to 12 Apostles
10 miles
Highlights: The Twelve Apostles!
Get ready, because the big one’s coming up. From Devils Kitchen you’ll head along wild coastal cliffs towards Princetown with its wetlands that support a whole load of different bird life, before crossing the Gellibrand River. To the left of the picnic area on the other side of the bridge you’ll pick up the next part of the track through just over a mile of pleasant coastal scrub.
You’re on the home stretch, folks! Port Campbell National Park and the iconic Twelves Apostles await you. The Great Ocean Walk viewing platform is towards the end just before Gibson’s Steps. At low tide, you can descend Gibson’s Steps and see Gog and Mogog (not strictly one of the Twelve Apostles) up close and personal.
Then it’s just another few hundred metres to the finish line at the Twelve Apostles visitor centre – it’s got a cafe, so after all this walking we think a cin-cin or two is due.
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